Yoshihiro Narisawa’s two-star temple of satoyama cuisine — innovative, nature-obsessed fine dining that’s been on world’s-best lists for years. This is the special-occasion splurge, full stop. Book months ahead and surrender to the tasting menu.

This was one of the first truly high-end, Michelin-starred dining experiences I’ve ever had. While it blew me away in 2015 and 2016, I believe Narisawa-san has been resting on his laurels. It’s rushed, lacks the embelishments of a truly great meal, and is outrageously expensive now.